 Notes on Varnishing The steps to take toward a smooth durable finish. Varnish will afford a strong wear layer for long range durability. Using varnish remains the best way to achieve that traditional, deep "look into" type of finish that is sought after by fine wood workers. Coating engineers have done a marvelous job of developing varnishes that, not only dry rapidly, but don't "drag" the brush and "level" very well thus avoiding streaky brush marks. The few problems that crop up can be handled easily. WHILE LINING UP YOUR TOOLS AND WORKPLACE, SOME THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN CHOOSING A VARNISH: THE DON'TS
Pour the varnish into a clean non-lipped container. Do not use the can the varnish came in as your working pot because as the brush is dragged across the lip to unload it, bubbles will occur and drop back into the can. Besides, you will also contaminate the fresh varnish with things picked up in the workspace. Instead, to unload the brush, tap the side of the working pot with the fully loaded brush until the "feel" is right - you don't want too much the same as not wanting too little material to work with. Don't rush! Work slowly; don't "pump" the brush; let the tip do the work. For the first coat you might want to thin the varnish - the old hat that more thin coats work better than a few thick ones is true in the case of varnish. Check the label for thinning recommendations. Start at the top of the piece and work down - easier to catch runs and drips. When working on a horizontal surface, apply the varnish in cross strokes at about 30 degrees to the length. Don't begin the work at the edge which would otherwise cause big drips. Instead, begin a bit in towards the center working your way to the side edges. After the surface is covered, "lay" the varnish using the same but unloaded brush stroke following the grain the length of the surface in light long strokes using only the weight of the brush. Don't worry too much about some of the streaks that appear - for the most part these will level out in the drying process. Most varnishes are dry overnight, although a few are considerably faster; again, check the label for specifics. You probably will have a few situations to deal with: dust specks, runs, drips, cat hairs and brush pieces. These are normal. So how do you get rid of these problems and deal with the bumps? Smoothing Things Over... Between Coats After the coat has dried properly; lightly sand using something finer than #220; #400 would be perfect for this. Careful! Too much pressure will blast right through the finish and ruin your stain - use just enough to knock off the bumps. STAY AWAY FROM THE EDGES! (You're doing this only to get those pesky bumps out.) Second and third coats will be treated the same way. But there is more to do… because… No matter what, you will not have a perfectly smooth surface. So, to make it smooth take the steps outlined in the next few paragraphs. Smoothing Things Over... After the Final Coat When all of the varnish coats have been put on and have hardened, do the following:
Using long, with-the-grain, medium pressure strokes, work the surface until the scratches begin to disappear. Continue the stroking until all streaks and dull areas have been polished away. When you are satisfied, wipe the surface with a dry soft cloth. Sometimes you can skip the Parafin Oil and Rottenstone idea altogether and get the job done by using a dry textured rag (terrycloth) rubbing hard soon after the steelwool step but you must do this while the varnish still a bit soft. Let the piece rest a few days before subjecting to a great amount of service. It takes awhile for things to harden. Wax? Well, only maybe. Waxing Waxing an oil or varnished surface will generally give a smoother feel than can't be achieved any other way. Waxes also can add a luster that can't otherwise be achieved. In most cases, you probably won't need it for the added protection. Carnauba based paste wax is the only treatment one should use. Carnauba based waxes are very clear and will not yellow badly with age. While a bit hard to put on, it is worth the effort. It will come in a tin and have to be rubbed on with a pad and then buffed. It will look and feel good, as well as smell good. Some waxes come in tones that are stain-like, and do well to duplicate the effects of age that no other system can do. Making a new piece look old is an ideal application for colored waxes - as long as the piece is not going to be subject to much abuse. Bee's Wax, which is commonly used on antiques, displays too many drawbacks: it liquefies at greater than 90 degrees F, it is NOT hot water resistant, hand prints show easily and so do streaks from dragging things across it. On the other hand it does provide a soft glow that other treatments can't offer. It should be limited in its use. Plan to use Bee's Wax only where the object will not receive much wear. One concern with any wax is that it creates a problem in refinishing later on. It is tough stuff to get off and does a good job of preventing a new finish from sticking. It is imperative to avoid waxes containing silicone. They "build"; and because they don't dry they will get sticky and collect grime. They are almost impossible to remove at refinish time, requiring very deliberate steps to do so. Using wax is a personal choice matter that in many cases can be avoided. It is difficult to be absolute in the matter to wax or not. |
