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Robin Daly and the Daly's Staff Answers Your Questions
I have used your Daly's Ship n' Shore product and think it is great!! I used this product on wood deck chairs and they are holding up great. I was wondering if it is fine to just use Ship n' Shore as a protective coat or if I need to use an additional application to extend the life of the wood furniture that is exposed to the weather? ~Thanks, Eric M. I would only put the Ship n' Shore on the deck. Now if you wanted to get a little more protection to the Ship n' Shore for the outdoor furniture you can topcoat the Ship n' Shore with Daly's Seafin Teak Oil. Please allow the Ship n' Shore to dry for a minimum of 48 hours before top coating with the Seafin Teak Oil. You can add as many coats of this product as you deem necessary. The Seafin Teak Oil will not chip, crack or peel. Instead, it just gradually wears away. Apply more coats of the Seafin Teak Oil, as this happens to bring back the original luster of the finish. ~Sincerely, Kurt Johnson Years ago, the Paint Princess, came to our home and suggested a wallpaper and paint for our new home. Her services, at the time, were discounted with the paint and wallpaper purchase from Daly's. Is this service still available? ~Marion Daly's still makes house calls! Although we no longer have coupons attached to the consultations. I have designers that operate out of both stores that do consultations, the fee is $100/hr and I even make the occasional house call still if you'd like me to come back. A typical visit lasts from an hour to an hour-and-a-half. If you'd like to schedule an appointment call the store at 206.633.4200. ~Robin We have repainted a room with a gorgeous dusty olive over boring off white walls. Our dilemma is where the green walls meet the ceiling. After removing the tape we are left with uneven lines and leaks around the room making it look sloppy. The walls have are a bumpy texture that make them hard to touch up and make the line straight. We have considered painting the ceiling that same as the walls but I think that would make the room too dark. We think we have the correct off white paint to touch up. Any easy tips, tricks or tools to get a crisp perfect edge would be greatly appreciated. ~Thanks, Beverly My favorite fix-it trick is to use a small artist brush and free hand a line to make it look smooth and continuous. Even though painting tape is straight, and you'd think that would create a straight line, the texture of the wall underneath does affect how the project turns out. And it seems that no matter how firm you are in smoothing the tape down, it still seems to seep under the tape! Many professional painters don't tape off at all. They use a really good brush (this is key because it holds the paint and keeps a good bead) and free hand it when cutting in. Cutting in the process of outlining your wall where it meets the ceiling, floor or corner before you roll the paint on. TIP: When cutting in, as you get to the end of a run with your brush, you sort of gently flick your wrist to pull it off the wall so you don't leave a thick blob of paint where you stopped. I prefer an Angle Sash Brush by Corona for cutting in. It's handmade, has amazing bristles and will last a lifetime. An Angle Sash has an angled top, instead of a straight top. ~Robin I am building custom closet cabinets. The doors are of a eucalyptus wood with redwood cedar trim around them I want to route two bead lines on the face and paint them black. What Daly's Wood Finishing product should I use? I assume if I seal the wood and then route it the black paint will be less likely to stick to the sealer outside of the bead. I also assume I should use a latex black. ~Thanks, Randy E. SatinThane or GlosThane would be the best finish for this piece. I don't think you will need to Benite before the topcoat because the eucalyptus wood is so hard, dense and oily. The redwood cedar trim may need some Benite on it since it is not as dense or oily as the eucalyptus wood. The latex paint should have a problem adhering to the Benite if the Benite is dry. A slight sand of any grain that has risen on the cedar redwood may be necessary before applying the topcoat. ~Sincerely, Kurt Johnson I need to paint the exterior of my house this spring. Currently, it is beige with a leaning towards the taupe side. My neighbor, against covenants, painted his house bright yellow, with black trim. My other neighbor has a dark sage green with a creamy colored trim. The homes across the street are beige or gray. I live up high and my house has a presence. I want to make a stylish statement but not a "pop". What would you recommend? ~Peggy P. To maintain the architectural presence of your home and feature it in the best possible light, I think it might be a good idea to find a deeper mid-value color for the body of the house. Not a dark, dark color, but a rich hue. This way it is pumped up from the 'safe' taupe world of the neighbors, but helps to counterbalance the color choices of your neighbors. C2 Paint makes a color called 'Wildwood' that is very tasty, it's deep without being overly dark and has a mossy stone quality and changes in interesting ways in differing lighting conditions. If you are in the Greater Seattle/Eastside area, an on-site consultation with one of our designers is probably the most effective way to find the perfect shad, but you can send me a photo as well! ~Robin I am trying to paint a couple of bedrooms and I am having a hard time choosing a color. I tend to go towards the greens, reds and oranges. I was trying to step out of my "usual" color palette and that is where I get lost. Would you have any recommendations for a bedroom in my usual to unusual color palette? ~Thank you, Amita The first thing that comes to mind to get you out of your usual rut, but still be good 'friends' with the palette you are using is mossy plum. C2 Paint has a couple colors, 'Bohemian', 'Portuguese Dawn' and 'Nightcap'. They are soft, yet rich enough to not stray into the lavender world. Works great with oranges, greens and terra cottas. This will make a beautiful bedroom and is surprisingly neutral. Another color to look at is soft orange or earthy peach. Sounds nutty but check these colors out: 'Tiger Lily' and 'Cantaloupe'. Think of these as lighter versions of terra cotta, but still sophisticated. Don't let the peach scare you. Hope this gives you a little color inspiration. Feel free to call with any questions you may have. ~Robin I just put in a new deck last summer; part of the deck is under pine trees. With the heat we had last summer we now have lots of tree sap on our newly stained deck. Is there a way to get the tree sap off the deck without having to strip it and re-stain the deck? We never thought about the heat and tree sap. Thanks, Shirley Try lightly scrubbing it with turpentine and a fine Scothbrite pad – but gently so you don't cut into the stained finish of the deck. Hopefully, the turpentine will help dissolve the tree sap. If that weren't doing the trick, Daly's Housewash Concentrate would be your next step. However, we feel it will most likely lift some of the color off with the sap. Good luck with this project! ~Robin We replaced a cement aggregate patio with pavers last summer but cut around the steps so a little aggregate shows. Is there a paint that I could put on it so it will blend in with the pavers? It's not overly noticeable except to me and I am not sure how to blend it. Thanks, Barb W. If I understand your question correctly you are looking to paint the old aggregate. Pratt & Lambert makes an indoor/outdoor floor paint that you can probably use, but the trick that I see for you is maiking it 'blend' away. If you go down this pathy, you might want to even consider using two or three similar colors (light, medium and dark shade) that blend into the paver colors. Daub them on in a random patteron on the aggregate to blend them in. Because the material you are matching is probably rough in texture, there are light and dark qualities to the color. So by using a few different colors to blend with you will have a better chance of hiding. However, I am wondering if this is a lot of work for not much bang when a couple of seasons of weathering might do the same trick. An even better idea might be to look at Mason's Select Latex Concrete Stain. This way you won't have any chipping or peeling (like you might with paint). The colors are somewhat limited though, but definitely worth checking out. ~Robin ^ Return to Top ^ |
